Salt and Music

Travel humbles us by unveiling the vastness of the universe and our modest place within it, as noted by the novelist Gustave Flaubert. The question arises about why document and read travel experiences when one isn't the first or last to explore a destination. The significance becomes apparent when places are perceived to be reflections in the minds of those who inhabit, visit, or tour them. Notes gain meaning as they inspire inquiries into missed details and a desire to compare experiences. Reflection goes beyond landscapes to include cultural backgrounds and lessons learned, presenting a place's external beauty. This self-discovery transforms into exploring intricacies that connect us to the world and each other.
Saji Salkalachen





The English word "salary" has its roots in the Latin term salarium, denoting a stipend or allowance. The latter, in turn, is intricately connected to sal or salt (known as Salz in German), once acclaimed as white gold and a vital medium of trade in ancient China, Mexico, and Europe. Beyond its role as the ubiquitous food preservative, salt stands as the quintessential seasoning. Salzburg, Austria, finds a name trace in the historic salt(z) mines. The Adriatic Sea, with its high salinity, remains a rich source of salt, evident in the numerous coastal towns adorned with salt ponds and open salt fields.

Our Bavarian sojourn unfolded as an opportunity to delve into a historical and scientific narrative on salt, particularly its formation and extraction. Nestled in the Alpine valley near the Austrian-German border, the Berchtesgaden Salt Mine provided a vivid tableau for exploration. As the bus ascended towards the old border crossing on that picturesque Saturday afternoon, the absence of border police welcomed us to a serene landscape adorned with farms and villages against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. The Eagle's Nest, identified by the guide as a mountain residence frequented by Hitler during the Nazi Third Reich era, crowned a summit.

Founded over 500 years ago in 1517, the Berchtesgaden Salt Mine near the alpine town of Obersalzberg became our gateway to adventure. Clad in miner's attire—long, thick, high-necked suits adorned with fluorescent stripes—one embarks on a journey that not only shields from the subterranean chill (12 degrees Celsius) but also safeguards the skin during a thrilling 30-meter descent into the mine.

The mine's railway transports visitors 650 meters into the mountain, reaching a depth of nearly 120 meters from the surface. Crouched in tight, narrow carriages reminiscent of the fetal position, one navigates the low, twisting network of caves. The culmination of the subterranean voyage unfolds in the expansive Salt Cathedral, a cavern where, centuries ago, water seeped in, reaching the ceiling and dissolving the salt rock to form brine. Today, the salt crystal formations adorning the rock walls set the stage for a captivating laser sound-and-light show, painting the history of salt in a palette of colours and a symphony of musical notes.

The evolution of salt mining, once laboriously manual with a drilling rate of 2 cm/day before 1990, now boasts modern electronic-precision drilling machines achieving a speed of 6 meters per day. Sample exploration precedes the extraction process, evaluating the purity of salt mixed with iodides, fluorides, and other compounds. Bore wells, filled with pure mountain water, leach rock salt into the brine, which pumps out using compressed air through a corrosion-resistant bronze pump—an ingenious historical invention of German engineering. The journey of brine continues 29 km to the Bad Reichenhall Salt Works, where it undergoes processing, contributing to Germany's renowned Bad Reichenhaller AlpenSalz. The cave's Salt and Brand Museum further enriches one's understanding of this product's intriguing history, transforming the tour into an adventure of discovery and uniqueness, lending deeper meaning to the name and history of Salzburg.

Salzburg's connection with music adds another layer to its charm. Immortalized as the star and stage of the 1964 movie The Sound of Music, Salzburg exudes an epic blend of charm, romance, and nature's grandeur. By welcoming around 3 million fans annually, the city offers a pilgrimage site for enthusiasts eager to relive the movie's scenes and melodies. The Sound of Music Tour meticulously guides visitors through each locale, unveiling the captivating tales and music associated with them.

While the movie showcases various city locations and breathtaking panoramic views, it is intriguing to know that the framing of its significant portions took place within the confines of Hollywood Studios. The Mondsee Cathedral in the Lake District hosted Maria and Captain von Trapp's wedding, while the footbridge scene and the iconic Do-Re-Mi picnic sequence took place in the Mirabell Garden. The gazebo, featuring Liesl von Trapp's enchanting dance, was relocated from Leopoldskron Palace Park to Hellbrunn Palace in 1991 for publicity. The movie, inspired by the real-life story of Maria, unfolds the challenges she faced in a convent, her love for the outdoors, and her role as a tutor to one of Captain Georg von Trapp's daughters. Later, she married him (as also portrayed in the movie), and the story immortalizes. The von Trapp villa in Salzburg now operates as a bed-and-breakfast, with ten rooms all named after the movie's children, while the Trapp Family Lodge in Vermont stands as a sprawling luxury mountain resort across 2500 acres. Ranked as the third most-watched movie in cinema history after Gone with the Wind (1939) and Star Wars (1977), The Sound of Music cements Salzburg's place as an epic cinematic phenomenon.

The exploration of Salzburg culminates with a walking tour of the old town and along the Salzach River banks. Make-shift market shops dot the riverbanks, enticing visitors with exquisite wares. A river cruise aboard the highly maneuverable hydro-jet propulsion boat Amadeus, which turns 360° and offers visitors an all-around view of the city and the imposing Hohensalzburg Fortress that looms over the old town.

In the embrace of Salzburg, we discovered a city brimming with charm, offering a worthwhile experience that left an indelible mark on our hearts.