Arunachal Pradesh: There Are Times Where I Could Literally Hear Nothing
CHARLES DOMINIC

Having lived in Bangalore for most of my life, to be able to hear nothing is a privilege one doesn’t take for granted.


Northeast India Is an Exotic Land I t is unique and full of surprises. The unbeatable hospitality of the people, jaw-dropping natural beauty, cloud laden landscapes, Eco-friendly lifestyles, and enriching history of the land will surely make you wander in the distant land at least once. Though north-eastern states have been getting a fair share of the spotlight in the tourist map of India lately, it is still considered as a remote part of India by many. Apart from the famous festivals like Hornbill, Ziro, NH7 Weekender, Tawang, Orange, Sangai, Bihu, etc., people are not aware of the social fabric and the rich cultural heritage of Northeast India. Only well-traveled nomads and hard-core travelers have explored the remote parts of this region. States like Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, and Nagaland have become popular due to their famous music festivals, which draw hundreds of music lovers and tourists to this part of India each year during that season. But, Northeast India tourism is not all about jazz and music festivals. This is a fascinating region, known for its rustic beauty, deep-rooted history, age-old traditions, and tribal communities. The way of life of each tribal community is way different from others. The beauty of this far land is that you will get to see diversity at its best. Whether it is the language, attire, rituals, beliefs, or food, every tribal community has its own lifestyle and it is way too different from the rest of them. It is quite intriguing and overwhelming for people who travel to this region for the very first time.

Heaven Is a Myth and Arunachal Is Real
Curled beneath the eastern ramparts of the Himalayas broods a wild land of unnamed peaks and unexplored forests: the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh. The largest and least populous of the Seven Sisters – the septet of states that make up India’s turbulent, tribal Northeast – it lies folded between the Tibetan plateau, the steaming jungles of Burma, the mountains of Bhutan and the flood-prone plains of the Brahmaputra Valley. Remote, mountainous and forbidding, here shamans still fly through the night, hidden valleys conceal portals to other worlds, yetis leave footprints in the snow, spirits and demons abound, and the gods are appeased by the blood of sacrificed beasts. More tribes live here, and more languages are spoken, than anywhere else in South Asia. A goldmine of flora and fauna, its unparalleled altitudinal range provides sanctuary to a fabulous array of exotic and alarming creatures.

Snow leopards prowl along frozen ridges. Royal Bengal tigers pad through the jungle. Burmese rock pythons slither through the loam. Only heaven would have the greenest grass, the tallest snow-capped mountains, the crystal clear flowing rivers and the freshest air. But heaven is a myth and Arunachal is real. When I got down in Bomdilla, I noticed just how clean everything was. It was so pristine and very different in many ways compared to the rest of India. There was hardly any rubbish, pollution, or towns that were built up and crowded. There weren’t many cars or horns that would make your ears bleed. Just silence so I could enjoy some of the most jaw-dropping views I’ve ever seen. Arunachal Pradesh is the very definition of serenity. Have you been anywhere in India where you could hear a pin drop? No? Well, now you can. Arunachal Pradesh is as serene as you can get. There are times where I could literally hear, nothing.

Having lived in Bangalore for most of my life in India, to be able to hear nothing is a privilege one doesn’t take lightly. Arunachal Pradesh is one of India’s largest states with the smallest population, so you can relish in the space and the room to just relax and breathe. Whether it’s talking to one of the locals, watching the light shine through a monastery at just the right moment, feeling the peaceful vibes at a Buddhist temple, these place makes your problems feel small.

I would find hidden waterfalls, bridges, and little farm towns out in the middle of nowhere! It’s rare to find a place in the world that has so many surprises and secrets waiting for you. Along the route to Tawang, there were so many yaks just taking a nap or grazing and some just sheltering from the cold. It is a haven for beautiful mountain puppies. They would run up to me in temples; and mountain dogs would walk alongside for the entire trek and I wanted to take them all home.

Being bordered with Assam, Nagaland, Bhutan, Myanmar, and Tibet produces a wonderful mix of culture and, even better, the yummiest food, which I still miss. When I was travelling I tried Momos, Thukpa, Then Tuk, steamed bread, yak cheese curry, Himalayan spinach and yak butter tea. Thukpa is my all-time favourite dish from the Himalayas. Noodles in soup has never tasted so good anywhere else. Here the people were so peaceful. Never heard anyone raise their voice anytime, here life slowed down, one thing I noticed different was that no one hurried or was in a rush to do anything, unlike cities where life is fast and everyone is always in a hurry.

I like the fact that it is untouched by the 21st century. You won’t find buildings stacked on top of each other, a mass of twisted telephone wires, or TV signals here. It’s completely unspoiled. Many times during my tour, I kept thinking that a lot of it looked like it was just set up to give you an experience of going back in time or being at a living history museum. The best part is you won’t mind being disconnected from technology. You won’t have many phone signals in Arunachal, but you won’t care. There’s too much to inspire and excite you to be looking at your phone when you are here. You’d see women weaving dresses, farmers cultivating land, shepherds herding, steam from the houses that were burning fires or cooking.

It was such a breath of fresh air to see that traditional values and ways of living were still thriving. You’ll be indulging in the sunrise, or watching the monks praying in the monasteries, marveling at the mountains, or making friends around the campfires and the heater in the middle of the kitchen with chai. Arunachal will open your mind to a different world and way of thinking. Do we really need or depend on modern technology to survive in the 21st century? Should we go back to traditional ways of living? Is a more simple life a happier one? These are all the thoughts that went through my head when traveling through Arunachal Pradesh. It will open your mind to a different way of living your life. It is a place where people trust each other, are curious about one another, and care about people. The only irony is that you can see monks and people praying for and living in peace everywhere while Military convoys zip past your vehicles to the border and back. In my opinion, there is nothing better than taking a walk in nature. It’s so refreshing for the soul and is something that you can easily take for granted (especially as I used to live in an overly populated and polluted city). Dirang and Tawang were picture-perfect villages. It provided easy strolls and they would all blow anyone away with their beauty. My personal favourite is the one towards the old monastery, Khastung Gompa. I call it “the stairway to heaven”. From here you can get stunning panoramic views of the whole place after which I took some time to cool down and dip my feet in the Dirang Chu River. Here the water is still as fresh and clear as it was from the source. Here you could easily spend hours listening to the water and enjoy the mountain views sitting in the same spot.

Exploring this place on foot is easily the most exciting. You will come across ancient houses, bridges laced with colourful Himalayan Buddhist prayer flags, wildlife, and prayer wheels and there’s a surprise around every corner. India was always known for its hospitality but this was on another level. My favourite was being invited in for some of the local spirits at 11 am. It’s heated up to keep you warm. Also, being invited in for chai with a kind lady where I met two of her beautiful dogs who would do nothing but bark at people as they walked past. You could also visit the Thubsung Dhargyeling Monastery at sunrise its the best time to visit this monastery. This is when the monks perform their morning prayers. The sound of the Buddhist instruments and the monks chanting prayers really creates an ambience of relaxation and peace. During my travels I met lots of people, made a lot of friends and social media has really helped us stay in touch after all this while. One of the significant benefits of traveling is finding and keeping your inner balance. Too often, people get wrapped up in their lives, their daily routine of working, sleeping, eating, and living. They become self-absorbed to the point when their fatigue affects their health, their happiness, and their future. Traveling is a humbling experience. It is merely a superior feeling: to go to another place, and to see people live differently, speak differently, and look differently. This is how one comes to understand how big and crazy our world is.

It is an incredibly vital part of life. It is the best way to break your monotonous routine and experience life in different ways. Moreover, it is also a good remedy for stress, anxiety and depression. Travelling makes it easier to understand people. You will learn how other people eat, speak, live and more. When you get out of your comfort zone, you will become more sensitive towards other cultures and the people. Sometimes I think traveling, is the best teacher to help us understand the world. Arunachal is the most beautiful place in India I have visited to date. I’m already thinking of when I’m going to be able to go back. Although it’s the least visited state in India, I think this needs to change. I’m also torn between unleashing this awesome little secret of paradise and keeping it to myself. If there is one thing I know, it won’t be the last time that I set foot in Arunachal Pradesh. ∎