A Postcard from Europe

-Saji Salkalachen

As we arrived at Napoli Centrale Station, little did we know that our encounter with the taxi driver would be a gripping tale of wits and negotiation. Seemingly eager to capitalize on our tourist naivety, he boldly quoted an exorbitant fare of 30 euros for a mere 2-kilometer ride downtown.

However, our savvy response came in the form of mentioning the non-existent Uber rate, leaving him with no choice but to gracefully lower his demand to 15 euros. With luggage in tow and no other alternatives, we realized that taking things for granted, especially in Napoli, was a lesson we would cherish forever.

Our stay at the Napoli hotel took an amusing turn during checkout when we requested an accommodation receipt. The concierge’s attempt to provide a receipt with “total money pagaro (due) = 936.31 euros” left us puzzled and amused (we had paid all dues upfront). Resorting to a mix of Google translations and hand gestures, we managed to convey that we had already paid the amount, insisting on the correct term “paid” (pagato). The experience turned out to be a humorous lesson in navigating language barriers.

In the bustling streets of Napoli, we encountered a unique public transportation system where tram and bus drivers didn’t issue tickets or handle money. Instead, passengers were required to purchase tickets or passes from nearby tobacco outlets and validate them in small machines inside. On one occasion, I found myself on the verge of despair as three consecutive shops had exhausted their ticket stocks, leaving me ticketless and fatigued under the scorching sun. In a moment of desperation, I decided to employ an Indian jugaad (an innovative hack often resorted to in India).

I boarded a tram at its terminus, explaining my ticket predicament to the driver. To my astonishment, the driver showed remarkable integrity, halting the tram beside a tabacchi so I could buy a ticket. Despite my efforts, no tickets were available, and with imploring eyes, I sought an exemption. However, the driver upheld the rule firmly, teaching me a valuable lesson in integrity and resourcefulness.

Our debut day in Vienna brought us the enchanting sight of numerous architecturally splendid churches, a hallmark of the city. Enthralled by the captivating facade of one church, we decided to take a peek inside.

To our sheer amazement, a Syrian Christian Achen greeted us in Malayalam, our native tongue from Bangalore. We soon discovered that Rev. Shaiju Mathew Achen was pursuing a master’s degree in Theology at the University of Wein.

This serendipitous encounter led to a heartwarming experience as he invited us to join his Sunday Qurbana with a few families. The camaraderie and spiritual connection made us feel truly blessed, and Rev. Shaiju kindly offered invaluable insights into the local culture and noteworthy locations.

As we approached the latter part of our long-anticipated trip to the United States, we were about to face the most frustrating and disheartening moment in our travel plans. While standing in line at the airline counter at Rome Fiumicino Airport, eagerly waiting to check in for our WestJet flight to Las Vegas with a layover in Calgary, our excitement quickly turned to dismay. The check-in official informed us that we couldn't board the plane due to the requirement for Indian passport holders to possess a Canadian visa when transiting through Canadian soil. It was the case even if the traveller held a valid US visa and a confirmed onward reservation with the same airline, all within the frame of a mere 2.5-hour transit stop in an approved Canadian port.

Regrettably, the travel desk that handled our ticketing (Messrs Balmer Lawrie) did not provide this crucial information during the time of booking. Since they were the official government employee travel portal, we trusted in their reputation and guidance. This misinformation triggered a series of distressing events that completely derailed our travel plans.

We felt utterly bewildered, outraged, and humiliated as we stepped away from the queue, with the sense of hurt compounded by our national pride. Unlike citizens of a few other countries, such as Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand, and Taiwan, Indians were not exempt through an electronic travel authorization (ETA), and it required them to obtain a full visa even for a short transit period. This incident underscored the importance of researching visa requirements for all transit countries, regardless of whether it was a refuelling stop, deboarding stop, or a plane change, even when one depends on travel agencies for ticketing.

Compounding the situation was the lack of timely assistance from the customer service teams of Balmer and Lawrie in India and WestJet Travel Services in Calgary while we were at Rome Airport. Prompt resolution for the issue proved impossible due to time zone differences and the absence of a quick response. The fallout from this incident resulted in unforeseen expenses, including an impromptu flight ticket purchase from another airline, forfeiture of prepaid hotel accommodation, and a disruption to our entire travel schedule.

Fortunately, despite the emotional and physical toll, we managed to recover and reach our US destination, albeit a day later. We could finally leave behind the unsettling memories of past tremors and begin to enjoy the welcoming comforts and scenes around us. While we continued to savour the ever-changing landscapes and diverse cultures, we found ourselves in dual roles as both observers and recipients. This journey instilled in us a deep sense of wonder and gratitude for the sights and encounters we experienced, and it not only broadened our horizons but also enriched our souls immensely. ∎

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